The most recent (and significant) event was the unexpected death of a dear friend. About a week ago, he died alone at his home... he was an amazing guy... I had the extraordinary honor of speaking at his Memorial Service. I initially balked when asked to speak, but then realized this opportunity to honor Kevin, wouldn't come again... this was it. So I committed... and to be honest, his death hit me hard... and is why I find myself back here... writing again. At the core...I haven't changed... but my level of consciousness has... I'm "here" now.
So where do we go from here? I am no longer on this journey alone... my squad is here and I'm 'right' now.
I have also found my sanctuary... surfing has become for me a time for healing in the truest and purest sense - it transcends simple sport. And God knows I need it... A few weeks ago my brother Muncko and I surfed the North Shore. Wasn't his first time, but for me it was... he's far more skilled than I am but our Sunday morning sessions have become not merely routine or tradition... but necessary for my survival. It's not simply about the surfing... that day at the N Shore it was cosmic and nearly impossible to articulate. First of all... simply being in the water/waves of Hawaii's North Shore was an incredible feeling. Nine out of 10 days, I have no business surfing the N Shore... but this day was chill. It started to rain, the clouds were low and from the break you couldn't see the shore... the rain was hitting the water so hard it made the water look like a beaded blanket... Muncko was about 50 feet from me and at one point had about 4 or 5 sea turtles around him... then the Sunday morning church bells began to ring. The moment will forever be etched in my mind... was as close to being in a dream that I've ever been.
Surfing forces me to be present... completely. My very large and out of control ego is in check... and I'm at the mercy of Mother Earth...
glad you're back.
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